Barroco Wine Bar & Craft Cocktails opened in 2020 in Rockbrook, along South 108th Street between West Center Road and Prairie Hills Drive. Husband-and-wife team Tyler and Heather Ray had already begun developing the space when the pandemic hit, pushing their planned April opening off track. Heather was determined to open by year’s end.
They opened that December despite Tyler’s concerns the governor might announce another shutdown.
“Well, then we’re just going to sit and drink,” Heather said.
Barroco interior
Photo by Jennifer Corey
Heather was born and raised in Germany and attended high school in Munich. She went to college in America, because she loved football and wanted a school with a competitive program. She chose the University of Nebraska, and during her time there, the Huskers won two national championships. She met Tyler when he was her client at a marketing company. The two share an entrepreneurial spirit and own several Omaha businesses, including The Witchery barber shop and Christian Nobel Furs, both neighbors to Barroco.
It’s worth noting that The Witchery reinforces Barroco’s speakeasy-adjacent identity. After a haircut, a bookcase opens to a secret entrance to Barroco, where guests can follow a swanky trim with a luxurious cocktail.
“With our craft cocktails, we did prohibition era cocktails initially,” Heather said. “So that it kind of had that speakeasy feel, even though at that point we didn’t have the speakeasy door.”
Speakeasy door from The Witchery to Barroco
Photo by Jennifer Corey
Step inside Barroco and you’re transported to a place of old-world romance. Warm lights, stone walls, chandeliers, dark wood and deep red accents make the bar feel like a European hideout. The atmosphere reflects how they want guests to feel, best said by Heather: “We wanted this to be a place that people feel comfortable, warm and loved.”
For the Rays, it was all about creating a haven. Not just for date night or a nightcap, but for book clubs that may or may not read the book, private celebrations, holiday strays and regulars who arrive carrying both joys and grief. Regardless, Heather wants them to walk out feeling better than they came in.
As Jennifer and I took it all in, we sampled a generous portion of the cocktail list and small-bites menu.
The De La Louisiane
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The De La Louisiane is made with Michter’s Rye, Foro Vermouth, Benedictine, Absinthe and Peychaud’s Bitters. The absinthe hits the palate right away, but it complements rather than overpowers. The Benedictine lends its natural aromatic herbaceousness. It’s a bitter-forward cocktail with indulgence exactly where it needs to be. It’s a luxurious sipper with an elegant complexity and a warm, boozy finish.
Smoking the old fashioned
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The smoked old fashioned is made with Sextro rye, Angostura bitters, orange slice, cherry and sweetened with a sugar cube. It’s smoked tableside. This version leans slightly more bitter than sweet. It’s smoky and fun. The notes of cherry help elevate this classic.
Sazerac
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The Sazerac is made with Michter’s Rye, Herbsaint Absinthe, simple syrup, Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters and comes served in a martini glass. It’s an expert blend of bitter and sweet, leaning slightly sugary. It’s silky and smooth and has a boozy heat on the finish. I would have preferred a touch more black licorice essence from the absinthe, but it’s still a very well-made Sazerac.
Sicilian Rose
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The Sicilian Rose is a blend of Il Tramonto Limoncello, Stoli Citrus, Cointreau and strawberry-rose syrup. This cocktail is bright and vibrant, herbaceous and whimsically playful. It’s a bittersweet version of a strawberry lemonade made for the grown-up table. It feels right at home in an upscale bar but has enough playful charm to work poolside, too. It’s delightful, well conceived and certainly worth a second round.
The paper plane is made with Woodford Reserve bourbon, Aperol, Amaro and fresh lemon juice, which elevates the concoction with bright, vibrant citrus notes. It’s a complex dance of flavors that finishes with just the right citrus balance.
Chocolate martini
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The chocolate martini is made with vanilla vodka, Licor 43 Chocolate and Irish cream. The vodka cuts through the deeply satisfying chocolate notes, and the Irish cream adds its own boozy creaminess. Everything works together in a dangerously easy-to-drink sipper, especially if you’re a chocolate lover. It’s a 21-and-over dessert in a glass and pairs beautifully with a square of dark chocolate.
The Mezcalita (a.k.a. The Julie)
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The mezcalita, which might become known as “The Julie,” is not on the menu. It was requested at a birthday party Barroco recently hosted. It’s a margarita made with mezcal instead of tequila and hot honey instead of agave. It drinks like a margarita, but with mezcal’s smokiness in place of tequila’s cleaner edge. The hot honey adds both sugary nectar and heat. Lime citrus lingers pleasantly on the finish. If it’s not yet on the menu when you visit, just ask for it, and they’ll make it for you. If you like smoky margaritas, I strongly recommend it.
Barroco Spinach artichoke dip
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The spinach and artichoke dip is tender spinach, savory artichokes and gooey cheese mixed together and baked. It comes served with crisp tortilla chips that taste fresh and carry a light seasoning. The dip lives up to the menu copy: gooey, cheesy and unapologetically rich. It’s savory, blended well and has notes of fresh herbs that elevate the dip. We scraped the spoon to get every last bit.
The Fishwife tinned fish board
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The Fishwife Tinned Fish Board is your choice of 3 kinds of tinned fish. We chose albacore tuna with spicy olive oil. It comes with mini toast, olives, capers and olive tapenade (a blend of olives, garlic and herbs). The toast is lightly crunchy and buttery. The fish is served out of the tin and tastes surprisingly fresh. The tapenade is salty and garlicky and enhances the flavor of the tuna. It may be an assembled board, but every component tastes fresh and works with the next.
Pizza options include a rotating special, chicken bacon ranch, meat lovers, Mediterranean, cheese and jalapeño popper.
Jalapeño popper pizza
Photo by Jennifer Corey
The jalapeño popper pizza is topped with pepperoni, fresh bacon, a spicy cream cheese hot sauce blend and jalapeños. The crust is thin, with a cracker-crisp exterior and a soft, delicate interior. The pie is cheesy and savory, while the saltiness of the pepperoni plays well against the cream cheese. The jalapeños add a welcome spice. It comes with a side of hot honey to drizzle over the top as you like. The hot honey brings a candied kick of heat, and over this pizza, it adds a spicy lusciousness. It’s hard to imagine this not pairing with anything on the cocktail menu.
Tending bar at Barroco
Photo by Jennifer Corey
Haley was both the bartender and our server. She made every delectable cocktail we tried and offered excellent menu recommendations. She was warm and friendly and made us feel welcome, matching the inviting atmosphere the bar projects.
In loving memory of Jeff Gamble
Photo by Jennifer Corey
Behind the bar is a picture of Jeff Gamble, once a daytime bartender at Barroco. He worked 40 to 50 hours a week pouring drinks alongside Heather and the staff. He also worked at the former Johnny’s Steakhouse in Village Pointe and Brix. Gamble tended bar at Barroco for three years until his sudden passing in January. Heather said he was like family.
The fact that they keep his picture behind the bar helps explain why we spotted so many regulars at Barroco during our visit. There’s more than just a good vibe at this stylish wine bar. There’s a sense of family and community here that doesn’t feel manufactured. It’s more than great cocktails and a carefully curated wine list. It’s the warm, welcoming atmosphere the Rays strive for.
Barroco is one of those hidden gems tucked into an unassuming corner of a strip mall, between fur coats and haircuts. It’s a place that, once you find it, you want to tell everyone about. And at the same time keep it as your own little secret.
