Dolce means sweet in Italian and originally started off as a bakery. Owner and Chef Anthony Kueper bought Dolce in 2017 and quickly implemented his spin on fine dining.
Kueper was a James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef: Midwest in 2022. He grew up in a military family and got to know a wide variety of culture and cuisine. His culinary career began in high school where he took a couple of basic cooking classes. He later graduated from culinary school.
He has worked for the Ritz Carlton Company and helped earn Claasenhof, a restaurant in Germany, its second Michlelin star. Now at Dolce’s helm, Kueper is putting out some wonderful dishes. When these plates arrive at your table, you’re treated to a culinary experience that’s both visually stunning and indulgently delectable.
Dolce dining area
On our first visit, we took a journey through the four-course pre fixe tasting menu. Currently priced at $45 per person, this is a delightful way to experience three mouth-watering choices per course.
Jennifer’s journey started with risotto, greens, chicken breast and banana crème brûlée. My journey included the taste of the moment, which was Korean spicy chicken, plus sweet corn soup, angus hanging tender and bread pudding. For cocktails, Jennifer chose the Jameson and the giant peach and I had the horsefeather.
Jamison and the Giant Peach
Jameson and the giant peach is certainly up there among the top cocktails we’ve tried this year. Made with Jameson Irish whiskey, peach puree, ginger liqueur, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup and cinnamon, this cocktail tasted and smelled like a peach pie. If you like peach pie, like I do, you’ll find this to be a very memorable cocktail.
The horsefeather is an Irish mule with rye whiskey, ginger beer, fresh lemon juice and bitters. It was a bit of a let down as the ice had already melted, muting the punch it should have provided.
Risotto, shrimp and micro greens
Jennifer’s risotto with shrimp, carrot and spinach was rich, bold and creamy. The rice was perfect al dente; the shrimp was perfectly cooked. The risotto is a great start to the tasting menu journey.
The Korean spicy chicken was exquisite. It was fall-off-the-bone tender, and the spice was a moderately aggressive sweet heat with notes of sesame. The accompanying slaw and pickles added welcome sour elements that balanced fantastically with the heat and sweet sesame.
Korean spicy chicken
Moving to course two, the greens were an arcadian mix with focaccia croutons, cherry tomato and sunflower seeds. The sherry vinaigrette was a delicious dressing, and the vegetables were extremely fresh. Served as it was, the salad could have used a bit more of the vinaigrette.
The sweet corn soup was a delight. It was creamy, smooth, savory and allowed the natural sweetness of the corn to punch through. The wagyu meatball in the center was tender and juicy. The meatball carried a tad more salt, which helped season the soup.
Chicken Breast
Jennifer’s chicken breast was served with gnocchi, asparagus, basil pesto, tomato marmalade and thyme jus. Like the Korean chicken, the meat was moist and tender. The gnocchi were pillow soft with a perfect sear on the outside. The basil pesto, the marmalade and thyme jus each contributed their own blend of flavors, complementing one another beautifully.
The angus hanging tender had a great sear and was cooked to a perfect medium rare. It sat on top of horseradish mashed potatoes with broccolini to the side. The sauce was a roasted pepper demi glace. The horseradish, while prominent, was not overpowering. It was unique and delicious. The broccolini paired great with the demi (as did everything on the plate), but they were a tad undercooked. Apart from that, this dish was wonderful.
When it was time for dessert, Jennifer’s banana crème brûlée was creamy, smooth and had a proper caramelized sugar at the top. The banana was a natural alternative to the standard crème brûlée vanilla. It was completely covered with fresh fruits and a thin piece of chocolate – a very nice dessert.
Bread pudding
Our server James informed us that Dolce is well known for its bread pudding. I can see why. A crunchy exterior gives way to a decadent, warm, soft center. It’s accompanied by a raisin compote, topped with caramel and a house vanilla ice cream. The raisin compote was a natural pairing with the bread pudding. Another fantastic dessert.
Dolce offers coffee service as well. A French press is brought to your table and the server presses it in front of you. The coffee comes from San Francisco Coffee Roasting Company. It’s a full-bodied coffee, rich and bold, that pairs well with any dessert on the menu.
On our second visit, we took a trip through the a la carte menu. We started with the two-piece bread service and the beets. For entrees, we tried the lamb rack and the duck leg. We finished with the only dessert on the menu we had not yet tried: strawberry cheesecake.
For cocktails, Jennifer couldn’t resist going back to the Jamison and the Giant Peach. I can’t blame her. If she hadn’t, I would have. Instead, I went with the old fashioned. We later shared the pomegranate martini.
The old fashioned was a bit of a disappointment. Like the horsefeather, it arrived watered down. The expected balance of sweet bitterness with the bourbon leaned heavily towards the bitterness, and the sugar cube needed a touch more muddling.
Pomegranate Martini
The pomegranate martini was on par with the giant peach. It’s made with peach vodka, pama liqueur (a pomegranate liqueur) and triple sec. It’s a sweet, fruity cocktail that carries a hint of bitterness from the pomegranate. It’s a top-notch fruity version of a martini.
The bread service includes two pieces of house-made dinner rolls with a cheese crust on the exterior and warm fluffy bread in the middle. They’re great accompaniments to just about anything on the menu.
Beets
As far as shared plates go, the beets are a perfect way to whet the appetite. Beets are accompanied by fried balls of goat cheese, orange segments, honey, sherry vinaigrette and other dollops of sauces each carrying their own unique flavors. Goat cheese and beets is a fantastic combination and Dolce executes it well.
Rack of lamb
Jennifer ordered the lamb rack,which came cooked to a perfect medium rare, accompanied by saffron couscous, cannellini, cabbage, carrots, fennel and mint. The couscous was cooked perfectly and carried a savory saffron spice that was prominent but not overpowering. The sear on the lamb was fantastic.
Duck leg
The duck leg was plated beautifully and was as delicious as it looked. Much like the aforementioned chicken dishes, the duck fell right off the bone. It sat on top of asian flavored rice vermicelli noodles with a garlic-kaffir lime broth. It was accompanied by togarashi pickles, radish and shiitake mushrooms. It also had a bok choi that was both crunchy and juicy. Everything in this dish worked together, and combining all the components on the fork, made for a perfect bite.
Strawberry cheesecake
Finally, we had the strawberry cheesecake. This dessert was packed full of strawberry flavor with the slightly sour sweetness cheesecake is known for. To nitpick just a touch, the base was a bit soggy and the cheesecake a tad dense. Still, the flavors were wonderful, and the fresh fruit helped cut through the richness of the cheesecake.
Dolce has a unique décor: Rich browns dominate with strategic, warm lighting and pops of lime green with white tablecloths. I found it a delightful modern take on the mid-1960’s that I suspect has some Japanese influences. It’s small, intimate, warm and inviting.
Dolce offers a unique culinary journey that stands on its own amidst a city that’s become increasingly well known for its vast array of fine dining experiences. I’ll certainly be keeping my eye out for the next pre fixe menu and a la carte options that should be coming soon.
If you have yet to try Dolce, definitely add it to your list.
