Blane Hunter opened Porky Butts in 2018 after years of competition-winning barbecue. He grew up in South Texas, and it’s not a stretch to say he’s been barbecuing his whole life. He helped his dad as soon as he was able and later attended Fox Valley Technical College and Johnson and Wales University for formal culinary education. In 27 years, he has amassed an impressive array of barbecue trophies.
He’s also known by another name: Mr. Porky Butts.
It’s hard not to notice the sign on Porky Butt’s entry door that reads, “If we sell out, we close early.” I was thankful the door opened when I pulled it, which meant they hadn’t yet sold out at around 6 p.m. Wednesday. With how crowded it was, I have a hunch Jennifer and I might have been pushing our luck.
Porky Butts KCBS 2016 Team of the Year Grand Champion award
Inside is an impressive display of awards that neatly decorate every wall. The décor, warm with brilliant red walls with black trim and natural wood tables, creates a welcoming atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot to order at the counter, take a table number and sit at either a booth or one of the long bars while awaiting your order – for us, it came promptly.
During our first visit, Jennifer ordered the rib plate, while I opted for the 3 meats plate. My three choices were the chicken quarter, pulled pork and brisket. Each plate comes with two sides and a serving of corn bread. Jennifer chose the apple slaw and potato salad. I went for the brisket chili and mac ‘n cheese. We also tried the BBQ boudin balls.
Porky Butts BBQ boudin balls
Let’s cover the sides first, and then we’ll get into the meat of the visit.
These BBQ boudin balls are made with smoked pork and rice, cheese and fresh herbs. They’re fried to a delectable golden brown and topped with house BBQ sauce and green onions. Every ingredient blends to form a perfect bite.
The potato salad had a rich, creamy sauce mixed with chunks of potatoes, which were tender with the perfect texture. The cream was savory with a note of dill and a hint of smokiness.
Porky Butts apple slaw
The apple slaw was a pleasant surprise. Coleslaws are far too often bland, watery and more of an afterthought. Not so here. The slaw had a full breadth of flavors and perfectly seasoned cabbage. The sauce was good and creamy. There’s a wonderful mix of savory and sweet that blends with the slight bitterness of the cabbage.
The mac ‘n cheese had a soft cheese sauce, and the noodles were cooked just right. That said, I found it to be on the bland side, lacking seasoning.
The brisket chili was warm and inviting. It had the right level of smoke to the chili, and it had a good profile of flavors overall. It did seem like the spices hadn’t fully cooked into the chili, as the chili spice had an ever-so-slight raw flavor.
I imagine everyone has their own opinions on corn bread, likely dependent on how it’s traditionally made in their family. I certainly have my particulars. The cornbread here, while flavorful, was much denser than I am accustomed. As such, outside of the traditional crusty top, it resembled more of a heavy cupcake.
Let’s get to the meats, because that’s where Porky Butts shines brightly.
Porky Butts ribs
Jennifer’s rib platter was adorned with five large pork ribs. Yes, they fell off the bone easily. The smoky barbeque sauce cooked into the meat and presented a tangy bite that worked wonderfully with the natural sweetness of the pork.
Porky Butt’s knows how to do brisket. It had just the right level of smoke; it was juicy and glistening. The beef was completely fork tender and practically melted in the mouth.
Porky Butts 3 Meat Plate
Pulled pork has a propensity to be dry but not at Porky Butts. They nail this protein too. The pork was tender and seasoned well. Even upon taking some home and reheating later, that tenderness remained.
The chicken quarter came with a crispy, zesty skin that flavored the meat below it. Once again, the meat was succulently tender. This is a fantastic barbecue chicken.
On our next visit, this time a to-go order, we chose two sandwiches, the chicken-strip basket and an extra side of smoked beans. Jennifer selected the turkey turkey and opted for a side salad opposed to house made kettle chips. I gave the original porky a try and stuck with said kettle chips. Our son Alex is a bit of a chicken strip connoisseur, so when it’s on the menu, he typically orders it.
Let‘s start with the chicken-strip basket, which are tender fillets rolled in country pepper breading and fried. They come with a generous portion of fries. The breading was properly crispy and added both texture and seasoning to the chicken, which was moist, tender and cooked perfectly. The fries were seasoned well and had a good battery texture that added an extra crunch. They held up surprisingly well from the order counter through the drive home.
The turkey turkey is a smoked turkey sandwich. Served in the restaurant, it’s piled high with apple slaw and swiss cheese between two slices of blueberry bread. For take-out, the slaw is served separately which keeps the sandwich from getting soggy on the drive home. The turkey was very tender and had the right accent of smoke. The blueberry bread added a welcome sweetness which complemented the turkey.
Porky Butts brisket chili
The original porky is served on a brioche bun with a generous portion of pulled pork. Like the turkey turkey, the slaw was on the side. I piled on the slaw and enjoyed every bite. The pulled pork was so juicy and tender. it paired deliciously with the creamy, crunchy slaw.
The house-made kettle chips were tasty, well-seasoned and a good accompaniment to the pork sandwich. My only critique is most of them had lost the crispness during transport. I suspect the heat from the sandwich, and probably the chips themselves, had steamed the chips inside the take-home container. After sitting on a plate for a bit, they did recover some of the crunch, but I assume that’s not the experience intended.
The smoked beans were at once smoky, sweet and savory and easily one of the best sides on the menu. A good barbecue joint should have good beans, and Porky Butts more than meets that expectation.
Porky Butts dining area
It’s not hard to see why Hunter has won so many awards. The Porky Butts website boasts “Over 130 competitions and counting.” If you have a moment, you might want to check out their “Our Story” page and see the impressive resume he’s amassed so far.
The staff here is also well trained. Even though they clearly have their work cut out to meet the demands Porky Butt’s popularity, they are friendly and efficient. During my call-in order, I received a pick-up time, and later a text to say the order was ready. I appreciate how they set and met expectations.
If you haven’t been to Porky Butts, it might be time to get your hind quarters over there.
